05/08/2011

Focus: Panama

A ticket to the Pacific!


Given the number of prestigious hotels opening in this small country between Costa Rica and Colombia, Panama is clearly the in thing and is riding high. Overview of our journey…


For common mortals, Panama can be summed up as three syllables and two images: an elegant hat with a black ribbon and a canal linking two oceans. But before having your head sized or reading up on a detailed history of this major project, start by putting your luggage down and resting after a long voyage.

Are you in the mood for low lighting, discretion and restraint? Go for the Bristol, the name of which evokes a certain British flair. But make sure you avoid the rooms facing the neighbouring building under construction: the early morning noise could disturb your well-deserved rest. This neighbouring building, a future addition to the hotel, will have brand new rooms, apartments available for purchase, and a spa which is lacking for the time being. When you visit, the work might be finished, but for now, be sure to choose the right side. The bedding is exceptionally comfortable, and you are sure to enjoy a deep night’s sleep. In the morning, be aware that correct attire is expected in the restaurant where breakfast is served. Sandals and shorts are not permitted, so come down well dressed or opt for breakfast in bed!

Another hotel, another ambiance. The Méridien aims to be hip rather than traditionally distinguished: contemporary décor, a giant atrium made of lighted walls, a trendy lounge and restaurant, zen music… The rooms with their minimalist décor are just right for rest. The unobstructed view of the bay is inspiring. To relax, take a stroll to the top floor where a spa awaits along with a small outdoor pool. From this terrace, you quickly realise that Panama is in full boom. The number of skyscrapers under construction is really striking. Among them, a Hilton and a Waldorf Astoria, a little further away, a condo/hotel by Trump, a Westin in the chic Costa del Este district…

Who will be staying in these hundreds if not thousands of new upscale rooms?
Many of them will probably be booked by business men and women in town for work (Panama, thanks to its central location and canal business is a major economic centre) or on more personal business, as the fiscal advantages and banking confidentiality attract the planet’s wealthiest.
This is an invitation to evasion, not the tax kind, but the getting away from it all kind, facing the ocean, elsewhere, far from the urban tumult and stress you have left behind.
Those in the biggest rush will probably head straight from the airport to the Intercontinental Playa de la Bonita which is just 25 minutes from the city, but allows you to dip your toes in the water and tread a sandy beach. A large building with a well-guarded entry, the hotel boasts a beautiful pool, an open-air restaurant facing the beach, and a Clarins spa. From your room, you can admire the ballet of liners waiting their turn to head through the canal. A unique view, but one which might not prompt you to take a dip. This is a suburban beach, ideal for a foretaste, but not for feeling unplugged from the rest of the world.

The paradisiacal beaches are on the Caribbean side. Near Boca del Toro and the St Blas Islands, white sand beaches are legion. The only cloud on the horizon: the lack of luxury hotels up to the standard of this area’s natural beauty. You could go for a day trip, but we suggest heading back up the Pacific coast to benefit from the best of both worlds: a paradisiacal hotel in a corner of paradise!
Take the Pan-American in the direction of Rio Hato and in less than 90 minutes you will reach the very recent Bristol Buenaventura, the sister property to the capital’s hotel, but with a much more relaxed, resort feel. Enjoy the freedom, with shorts and sandals allowed at breakfast, then take to the beach where you can enjoy all sorts of activities, from surfing to deep-sea fishing to sailing or some backstroke, basking in the sun. Two lovely pools will keep you refreshed.

The resort cleverly covered all its roofs in old tiles which make for an elegant charm. The lobby, completely open air, and the restaurant which allows for al fresco dining, are tastefully decorated. The 126 rooms are extremely comfortable, particularly those facing the sea with their welcoming balcony.

For a more unusual experience, and more intimate as well, continue on the Pan-American heading west, and stop off in Nata which has one of the oldest churches in the country, sparkling white under the midday sun, before turning off toward the south for the Azuero peninsula. Your destination is Pedasi, a small fishing village which has become a tourist hotspot. On the way, enjoy the astonishing landscape that combines the tropical with the pastoral, with fields of cows and marshes dotted with crocodiles. A quick dip is strongly discouraged! Patience, at the end of the road await vast beaches and ocean. Leaving Pedasi, a small road takes you to Villa Camilla. Ring the bell, the gates will open, and you enter another world. The world of Gilles Saint-Gilles, a globetrotting French architect. Jade green wrought-iron arabesque gate, red columns and walls that bring to mind China, let your imagination run wild, this place will take you far away. The seven hotel rooms each have their own charm: Jacaranda with its cupola over the bed, Jasmine with its small private patio, Roble with its superb parquet, Hibiscus with its immensely high ceilings… Most of the furniture has been designed by the architect and produced locally. Rooms on the upper floor can be joined to create a wonderful apartment overlooking the large pool where you can enjoy a swim year round.

Rumours abound as to the celebrities who have bought or have stayed in the region: Bruce Willis, Mel Gibson, Arnold Schwarzenegger, etc. One thing is certain, prices are soaring and Pedasi is in full boom. Take advantage of the climate which is half as humid as Panama: from Christmas to May, the sky is blue and thanks to the ocean breeze, you breathe easily. We liked Isla Iguana, a natural refuge which boasts some of the most beautiful white sand beaches, or Isla Cana, where sea turtles lay their eggs. It might feel as though you were at the end of the earth, and suddenly, you feel so much lighter… until it is time to think about getting back. In the interest of optimising your holiday, you can avoid the four-hour drive and return to Panama in 45 minutes on a small private plane.
Before taking off again, a visit to the old town of Panama, nicknamed Casco Viejo, is a must: a UNESCO world heritage site, this district brimming with charm is criss-crossed by small streets lined with buildings with splendid façades, which are often completely empty. The presidential palace and the French embassy are part of this enclave that is simultaneously majestic and folkloric. For the time being, there are no luxury hotels, but there is talk of restoring the Hotel Central across from the cathedral. Meanwhile, book a room at the Canal House BnB, where Daniel Craig stayed while filming Quantum of Solace, or rent a cute apartment through Los Cuatro Tulipanes, with daily housekeeping and a pretty roof terrace.
Visit the Casco Viejo canal museum or the Miraflores lock or, even more fun, the Gamboa Resort which offers an hour-long tour on the canal between giant tankers and lush little islands home to howler and capuchin monkeys. Full of these images, you will most certainly want to come back to see how the transformation in progress turns out for this small country that is all the rage.


● Hotels in Panama City
Bristol Panama
www.thebristol.com

Meridien Panama
www.starwoodhotels.com/lemeridien


● Apartment rentals in Casco Viejo
Los Cuatro Tulipanes
www.loscuatrotulipanes.com

The Canal House
www.canalhousepanama.com


● Hotels along the Pacific coast
Intercontinental Playa de la Bonita
www.marinabaysands.com

Bristol Buenaventura
www.thebristol.com/buenaventura

Villa Camilla
www.villacamillahotel.com



INFORMATIONS
To fly to Pedasi:
www.airesaviation.com


For a canal tour with a monkey island visit or a day trip to the Caribbean coast.
www.gamboatours.com


For general information on Panama:
www.visitpanama.com

Thanks to the team at l’Autoridad de Turismo Panamà (www.atp.gob.pa/) for their invaluable assistance in the realisation of this article.

By Philip Sinsheimer