A 15th-century cloistered convent refashioned to create an extraordinary hotel in the very heart of Milan's couture and financial district, is hardly surprising given Four Seasons' fabled savoir-faire. However the original concept that stages restored 18th-century frescoes, vaulted ceilings and flamboyant arches against the startling simplicity of white-washed walls, can be considered a tour de force.

What is most dramatic is surely the dizzying white spiral staircase that sharply contrasts with monastic arcades radiating serenity and otherworldliness. But sleek bedrooms and bathrooms of pristine Carrara marble are also remarkable, and the suites take your breath away. There's architectural genius in combining contemporary Italian design with Empire furniture, painted ceilings and fabulous Fortuny fabrics in warm neutrals. Majestic views vary depending on the location -- the inner courtyard, fashionable Via Gesù, central Milan and the Duomo, even lush private gardens. Steps from La Scala, the mise en scène at Il Teatro is operatic in nature.

Masterful chef, Sergio Mei, named Italian Cook of the Year in 1998, puts a new touch to Lombard cuisine, orchestrating his dishes to the seasons and producing truly prodigious innovations rated among the city's top five.

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